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6.
Pull the insulation back to expose the corrugated stainless
steel core.
7.
Cut the corrugated stainless steel core back by 7.6 cm (3")
on the IFV Series vent. You should now have about 7.6 cm
(3") of insulation hanging out past the stainless steel core
(see Figure 1.4);
8.
Push the stainless steel core onto the breach pipe as far as
it will go (see Figure 1.5) and mechanically attach the vent
to the breach using three of the #8 x 1/2" self-drilling screws
provided with the VTK Series kit. The screws should be
equally spaced around the circumference of the stainless
steel core, starting with the first screw in the centre at the
top. Start the drill point of the screws in the valleys of the
corrugations 9-16 mm (3/8"-5/8") back from the end of the
stainless steel core, so the screw heads can be properly
sealed in the following operations (see Figure 1.6);
9.
With the stainless steel core now firmly attached to the
breach, tear off one green gum-sealing strip from the
backing. Wrap the seal strip around the joint, always
keeping the centreline of the seal strip over the line where
the corrugated stainless steel core makes the transition to
the smooth outer surface of the breach pipe. In other words,
the seal strip must be centred over the joint. After wrapping
the seal strip around once, allow a 12 mm (1/2") overlap
and tear off the residual length (see Figure 1.7);
10. Break the residual length of seal strip in to 3 equal parts and
stick them onto the heads of the stainless steel self-drilling
screws so that they are completely covered;
11. Two stainless steel band clamps are provided in the VTK
Series kits. Position one stainless steel band clamp over the
gum seal joint so that the edge of the clamp closest to the
breach lines up with the edge of the gum seal that is closest
to the breach. Ensure that the band will close with an action
of one strip sliding over the other - not under the gear head
of the draw clamp (see Figure 1.8). Tighten the band clamp
with considerable torque to cause the gum seal to be
squeezed into all crevices and to ooze out of the end of the
clamp closest to the breach (see Figure 1.9). The gum will
eventually become rubbery;
12. The seal is permanent and should never need to be
disconnected as the breach plate can be removed for
cleaning and inspection using the 4-bolt joint;
13. Tuck the vent insulation into the breach collar;
14. Screw the spin sleeve tightly into the breach collar for a
finished appearance. Wrap the other end of the spin sleeve
with aluminium tape to cover any metal burrs that may be
present (see Figure 1.10);
15. Bend the venting into the desired radius coming off the
breach.
Connection to the vent terminal - DV-2000™
1.
Prepare the terminal end of the insulated flex vent by first
screwing the spin sleeve onto the corrugated aluminium
jacket until the trailing edge of the spin sleeve is about
0.25 m (10") from the end of the vent;
2.
Using sharp tin snips, cut the aluminium outer sleeve back
by 0.13 m (5") on the IFV Series vent;
3.
Pull the insulation back to expose the corrugated stainless
steel core;
4.
Cut the corrugated stainless steel core back by 76 mm (3")
on the IFV Series vent. You should now have about 76 mm
(3") of insulation hanging out past the stainless steel core;
5.
Push the stainless steel core onto the pipe on the back of
the terminal as far as it will go and mechanically attach the
vent to the terminal using three of the #8 x 1/2" self-drilling
screws provided with the VTK Series kit. The screws should
be equally spaced around the circumference of the stainless
steel core, starting with the first screw in the centre at the
top. Start the drill point of the screws in the valleys of the
corrugations 9-16 mm (3/8"-5/8") back from the end of the
stainless steel core;
6.
With the stainless steel core now firmly attached to the terminal, tear
off the other green gum-sealing strip from the backing. Wrap the seal
strip around the joint, always keeping the centreline of the seal strip
over the line where the corrugated stainless steel core makes the
transition to the smooth outer surface of the terminal pipe. After
wrapping the seal strip around once, allow a 12 mm (1/2") overlap and
tear off the residual length;
7.
Break the residual length of seal strip in to 3 equal parts and stick
them onto the heads of the stainless steel self-drilling screws so that
they are completely covered;
8.
Position the other stainless steel band clamp over the gum seal joint
so that the edge of the clamp closest to the terminal lines up with the
edge of the gum seal that is closest to the terminal. Tighten the band
clamp with considerable torque to cause the gum seal be squeezed
into all crevices and to ooze out of the end of the clamp closest to the
terminal (see Figure 1.11);
9.
The seal is permanent and should never need to be disconnected as
the end of the terminal can be opened for cleaning and inspection by
removing the screened end-cone assembly. Tuck the vent insulation
into the recess in the terminal body;
10. Screw the spin sleeve tightly into the recess for a finished appearance.
Wrap the other end of the spin sleeve with aluminium tape to cover
any metal burrs that may be present (see Figure 1.12);
11. Bend the venting into the desired radius coming off the terminal.
Installing terminal in the wall - DV-2000™
1.
Cut a 0.15 m (6") hole in the side-wall in accordance with the location
considerations outlined in the previous section;
2.
Fasten the wall plate to the inside-wall using 4 field-provided fasteners
appropriate for the material behind the wall plate. Depending on the
angle of access, the pressure control bracket may need to be removed
to access the top right wall plate screw hole. For concrete and block,
Tapcon™ screws or equivalent are recommended. Install the wall
plate so that the top of the hole in the wall plate is positioned 3 mm
(1/8") lower than the top of the 0.15 m (6") hole in the wall. This will
accommodate the proper slope of the terminal, in the direction from
the inside to the outside;
3.
Remove the 2 screws fastening the end cone in place and remove the
cone
4.
Remove the 2 screws fastening the stabiliser shroud in place and
remove the stabiliser shroud;
5.
Insert the main body of the terminal through the wall plate so that the
end of the terminal extends about 50 mm (2") past the outside wall;
6.
Install the stabiliser shroud and replace the two mounting screws. (see
Figure 1.13);
7.
On concrete and block wall installations in particular, if it appears that
the flange on the back of the stabiliser shroud is not large enough to
cover the irregularities in the hole, a field fabricated wall plate can be
constructed out of 304, 316, or 316L stainless steel;
8.
Silicone seal the circumference of the joint where the stabiliser shroud
connects to the main body of the terminal;
9.
Apply caulking to the back plate of the stabiliser shroud and push the
terminal back firmly against the wall, making sure the pressure switch
is located at the top, in a horizontal position;
10. While pushing down gently on the top of the stabiliser shroud, install
the 3 stainless steel 2" screws provided with the kit to secure the back
of the shroud to the wall. Do not over tighten the screws or it will distort
the stabiliser shroud. The screws will not be necessary in a concrete
or block wall as the mortar can provide positive positioning;
11. Tighten the clamp on the wall plate to secure the terminal in place;
12. Apply more caulking all around the seam where the stabiliser shroud
meets the wall. It is important to have a good seal to prevent water
from entering the dwelling (see Figure 1.14). A considerable amount of
caulking may be necessary for irregular wall surfaces such as lapped
siding;
13. Install the end cone and replace the two mounting screws;
14. Support the vent and intake air piping so that a 6 to 13 mm (1/4 to
1/2") slope (toward the outside) results for proper drainage out the
terminal body.
11
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