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With a concrete foundation the instructions are the same, with the
concrete slab replaced the gravel bed (thickness depends on the lo-
cal conditions at 15 - 20 cm with steel reinforcement).
Underground Installation
In-ground installation of the pool, you must provide a suitable pres-
sure protection around the basin. This can be made of lightweight
concrete, lean concrete or by building a peripheral wall.
Why? The pressure of the back-filling with earth or gravel is a multi-
ple of the water pressure. If no backfill to stabilize with light or lean is
done, the pool may collapse during emptying.
Installation of floor rails
Place the bottom profiles around the circular area, except the last
profile. The profiles are connected with 2 joints of plastic. Figure
11.12
Unpack the coiled pool wall and place it vertically on a cardboard at
the center of the pool circle. The starting end of the wall must be po-
sitioned over a base plate, and the holes for the filter hoses should
be positioned where the pump and filter will be
clockwise completely over the entire length of the circle in the inner
profiles. Figure 13
Complete the circle, line up the holes in the two ends oft he pool wall
and join the ends with a bolt and nut through each head. The head
oft he bolts must be on the inner surface oft he wall, and the wash-
ers and nuts on the outer surface. There are two lines of holes on
the wall. It is important that each hole has a screw (except the last
one),
otherwise, the pool could break when filling. Recheck all of the
base plates to make sure each one are centered where the base
rails meet. Even make sure, that all lower profiles are set correctly.
Now you may cut to measure the last section with a hacksaw. For
this you only just need to lift the steel wall a little bit. Also do not for-
get the plastic
connectors.Figure 14
Using a strip of PVC, cover the bolt heads on the inside of the pool
wall to protect the liner from rubbing against objects, which is the
main cause of tears in the liner (fig. 16). This tape must adhere firm-
ly, if it's necessary,
use
PVC glue. Stick the strip with glue for PVC to
insure that for instance the screws are completely covered before
moving on to the next step. Figure 15
Make sure that the swimming pool is completely circulare. Figure 16
If you use no floor insulation
Cover the inside bottom border of the circle using clean thin sifted
sand free of any stones or foreign objects with a height of 1 - 2 cm
and condense this. Press the sand into a vertical triangular shaped
layer that covers the sections and the inside part of the metal wall.
The height of this triangular layer must be around 7 cm. In this way,
you will prevent the liner from sliding under the metal wall and being
damaged due to the pressure and the weight of the water. To avoid
running away of the sand, you should install as shown below, in ad-
dition a plastic sheet along the pelvic floor.
Figure 17
1) chamfer
2) tape
3) platic film
4) steel jacket
Figure 18
Page 6 of 36
The wall is rolled
If you use floor insulation
Here you can use our optional Styrofoam wedges. These are glued
with an adhesive force on the round floor insulation along the pool
wall.
Alternatively, you can also make the furrow of sand.
Regardless how you make the groove, you have to apply to the floor
insulation and the fillet a swimming fleece because otherwise the
bottom of the pool liner insulation deprives the plasticizers, the film
becomes brittle and thus significantly reduces the lifetime.
Installation of the swimming pool liner
The liner used has been developed to withstand exposure to heat
and ultraviolet rays for a long period of time.
Therefore, under certain climates and conditions of use, the liner
quality can vary slightly.
Never walk on the liner with shoes on.
The liner is the most important and delicate part of the swimming
pool. Do not use knives or any sharp objects to open the swimming
pool bag/container. Carefully separate the liner from the rest of the
parts and keep it in a safe place to avoid undesired holes or damag-
es that could be caused by the tools or the metal wall.
Install the liner on a sunny day, minimum 20º C, so that it can easily
stretch during the installation. It is made of a highly flexible vinyl ma-
terial.
1. Place the liner (L) in the center of the swimming pool and unfold it
towards the sides. Place the rough side towards the inside of the
pool. The welded part that joins the base of the liner with the side
must perfectly match the lower sections and the wall, all around
the inside perimeter at the bottom of the swimming pool. Figure 19
2. Locate the side welding so that it is perfectly right and perpendicu-
lar on the ground. This will help you to place the liner without folds.
3. Lift the side of the liner that covers the upper edges of the swim-
ming pool and fasten it to the top of the wall with clothespins. Re-
move the wrinkles by pulling smoothly outwards and adjust the lin-
er. Flatten the pool liner with your hands. Don't pull too hard. Figu-
re 20
4. It is very important, that the liner is centered, well extended and
not wrinkled. Start filling the pool with water, but not more than 2-3
cm and work out all the wrinkles and smooth the liner to the wall.
Dont't strech the liner too much. Now make sure the pool wal lis
level. If the level is off by more than 25 mm across the diameter of
the pool, empty the pool, take the wall apart and level the founda-
tions again. Figure 21
5.
Insert the U-profiles (Poolcoping) around the edges of the pool. Af-
ter the U-profiles are installed, cut the last profile to the appropriate
length.
Figure 22, 23
Installation of handrails
1.
Now press the handrail profiles on the
2.
After you complete the circle, cut from the last profile with a hack-
saw to measure. Best you contuine filling the pool with water half-
way. With the weight of the water, the pool will expand. The dis-
tance will be more accurate. Make sure that all lower profiles are
set correctly before you start cutting.
Figure 24
Installation of the decorative foil (optional)
Now put on the decorative film on the steel jacket and make sure
that there are no wrinkles.
Now you have to cut in the steel casing prepunched outlets for
skimmer and inlet ring all around about 2 inches larger.
Figure 25, 26
U-profiles.
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