BTI HKS 61 Notice D'utilisation page 49

3. BLADE TWISTING (MISALIGNMENT IN
CUT)
A. Pushing harder to cut can cause the blade to
twist.
B. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get
back on the marked line) can cause blade
twist.
C. Overreaching or operating the saw with poor
body control (out of balance), can result in
twisting the blade.
D. Changing hand grip or body position while
cutting can result in blade twist.
E. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead
to twist.
4. USE OF DULL OR DIRTY BLADES
Dull blades cause increased loading of the
saw. To compensate, an operator will usually
push harder which further loads the unit and
promotes twisting of the blade in the kerf.
Worn blades may also have insufficient body
clearance which increases the chance of
binding and increased loading.
5. RESTARTING A CUT WITH THE BLADE
TEETH JAMMED AGAINST THE MATERIAL
The saw should be brought up to full operating
speed before starting a cut or restarting a cut
after the unit has been stopped with the blade
in the kerf. Failure to do so can cause stalling
and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching,
binding, twisting, or misalignment of the blade could
cause kickback. Refer to the sections Additional
Specific Safety Rules for Circular Saws and
Blades for procedures and techniques that will
minimize the occurrence of kickback.
Depth of Cut Adjustment (fi g. 6–8)
1. Raise the depth adjustment lever (q) to loosen.
2. To obtain the correct depth of cut, align the
appropriate mark on the depth adjustment strap
(s) with notch (r) on the upper blade guard.
3. Tighten the depth adjustment lever.
4. For the most efficient cutting action using
a carbide tipped saw blade, set the depth
adjustment so that about one half of a tooth
projects below the surface of the wood to be
cut.
5. A method of checking for the correct cutting
depth is shown in figure 8. Lay a piece of the
material you plan to cut along the side of the
blade, as shown in the figure, and observe how
much tooth projects beyond the material.
ADJUSTING DEPTH ADJUSTMENT LEVER (FIG. 7)
It may be desirable to adjust the depth adjustment
lever (q). It may loosen in time and hit the base plate
before tighten ing.
To Tighten the Lever:
1. Hold depth adjustment lever (q) and loosen the
locknut (t).
2. Adjust the depth adjustment lever by rotating it
in the desired direction about 1/8 of a revolution.
3. Retighten nut.
Bevel Angle Adjustment (fi g. 9)
The bevel angle adjustment mechanism (h) can be
adjusted between 0° and 57°.
To achieve better accuracy in cutting, use the
fine adjustment markings located on the pivot
bracket (v).
1. Raise the bevel adjustment lever (g) to loosen.
2. Tilt the base plate to the desired angle by
aligning the fine bevel pointer (u) with the
desired angle mark on the pivot bracket (v).
3. Lower the bevel adjustment lever to retighten.
Bevel Detent (fi g. 9)
The HKS 61 is equipped with a bevel detent
feature. As you tilt the base plate you will hear a
click and feel the base plate stop at both 22.5 and
45 degrees. If either of these is the desired angle,
retighten the lever (g) by lowering it. If you desire
another angle, continue tilting the base plate until the
coarse bevel pointer (w) or the fine pointer (u) aligns
with the desired mark.
Cut Length Indicator (fi g. 10)
The markings on the side of the base plate show the
length of the slot being cut into the material at the
full depth of the cut. The markings are in increments
of 5 mm (1/5").
Mounting and Adjusting the Parallel
Fence (fi g. 11)
The parallel fence (x) is used for cutting parallel to
the edge of the workpiece.
MOUNTING
1. Slacken the parallel fence adjustment knob (y)
to allow the parallel fence to pass.
2. Insert the parallel fence (x) in the base plate (i) as
shown.
EN G LI SH
47