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Symptoms
A. Motor will not run.
B. Motor runs hot and overload trips.
C. Motor runs but no water is delivered.
D. Pump does not deliver water to full capacity.
E. Pump cycles too frequently or does not shut
off at all.
F. Air spurts from faucets.
G. Pump leaks around clamp.
Things to Do:
A. Check that the disconnect switch is ON and that the circuit breaker
has not tripped or the fuse has not blown.
DISCONNECT POWER and make sure that wires connecting motor to
power supply and pressure switch are tight and correctly connected
(see Page 6).
If the remedies above do not solve the problem, call your well
professional.
B. Turn to electrical instructions on Page 6 and verify that motor is
correctly wired.
Check with the power company or hydro authority to make sure
that the voltage at the pump is within + 10% of the motor's rated
nameplate voltage.
DISCONNECT POWER and make sure that the wires connecting the
motor to the power supply are sized according to Table I, Page 7.
If not, rewire according to the instructions on Page 6.
If the pump is cycling too frequently, see Section E, below.
C. FIRST, check the prime; that is, make sure that the pump and all the
suction piping plus the piping in the well are full of water. If they
aren't, fill them up.
In cold weather, make sure that the pipes and pump are not frozen.
If they are, thaw them, watching out for split pipes and fittings as you
work. Heat the pump pit or pump house and bury all piping below
the frost line.
Other possible causes (call your pump professional if you suspect one
of these): Air leaks in the suction line, dropping water level in the well,
foot valve stuck or plugged, ejector plugged, impeller plugged, foot
valve or strainer stuck in the mud in the bottom of the well, a shallow
well pump installed on a well with more than 25 ft depth to water
(in this case a deep well jet pump is needed).
D. Possible causes are: the well water level is lower than estimated,
making a different nozzle/venturi combination necessary; steel piping
(if used) is corroded or limed, restricting capacity and increasing
friction; or the piping is too small for the installation. Consult your
well professional for any of these conditions.
E. Make sure no faucets have been left open.
If system has a standard tank, make sure it isn't waterlogged. If it is,
drain it down to the level of the air volume control. Make sure the
AVC isn't defective and that there are no leaks at any connections.
If system has a precharged tank, disconnect power, open all system
faucets and bleed all pressure off of tank. Use a tire gauge to check
the air pressure in the tank. This should be lower than the cut-in setting
of the pressure switch by 2 PSI (that is, if the pressure switch starts the
pump at 30 PSI, the precharge should be 28 PSI). Check the air valve
for leaks (use a soap solution) and replace the core if necessary.
If you suspect any of the following conditions, consult your well
professional: leaky pipes, leaky foot valve, water level in the well
lower than estimated, clogged ejector or impeller.
F. Pump may still be priming; when priming is complete all air will have
been ejected from the system.
If you suspect leaks in the suction piping, gasses in the well, or that the
pump is intermittently overpumping the well (that is, drawing the water
level down below the foot valve), consult your well professional.
G. Tighten clamp nut 1-2 turns. Do not overtighten.
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