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2.
When the workpiece is past the blade, the work will either
stay on the table or tilt up slightly and be caught by the
end of the guard. Alternately, the feed will continue to
the end of the table, and be lifted and brought along the
outside edge of the fence. When ripping boards longer
than three feet, use a work support at the rear of the saw
to keep the workpiece from falling off the saw table.
3.
If the size or shape of the workpiece would cause your
hands to be within 6" of the saw blade, use a push stick to
complete the cut (Fig. 55).
4.
Ripping narrow pieces can be dangerous. If possible,
rip the narrow piece from the larger piece (Fig. 56). If
the workpiece is short enough, use a pushboard. (A
pushboard can be constructed as shown in Fig. 57 and
used as shown in Fig. 58.)
NOTE: In Fig. 58 the guard and splitter have been removed for
clarity. Use the guard and splitter when ripping.
5.
For longer pieces, use one or more pushsticks to avoid
placing your hands between the fence and the blade.
Always use care to avoid binding narrow strips between
the anti-kickback pawls and the splitter.
NOTE: Some special operations (moulding cutterhead, etc.)
require the addition of an auxiliary wood facing to the
fence, as explained in the section "USING AUXILIARY
WOOD FACING," and use of a push stick.
BEVEL RIPPING
Bevel ripping (Fig. 59) is the same as ripping except that the
bevel angle is set to an angle other than 0
When possible, place the fence on the left
side of the blade so that the blade is tilted away from the
fence and hands. Keep hands clear of the blade and use
a pushstick to feed the workpiece if there is less than 6"
between the fence and the blade.
Use caution when starting the cut to prevent
binding of the guard against the workpiece.
Fig. 48
Fig. 57
° .
21
A
Fig. 58
Fig. 48
Fig. 55
Fig. 56
Fig. 59
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