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• Installation on concrete slab compulsory and necessary for warranty to be valid. Thickness: 20 cm minimum. Ensure that slab is completely
smooth and level.
• Swimming pool should be oriented so that skimmer inlet(s) face(s) prevailing wind, in order to optimise surface particle filtration.
Fit the planks together using the sacrifice part provided for this purpose.
SUMMARY:
- Erecting the sides of the pool
- Positioning the supports and the brackets
- Preparing the sides of the pool
- Installing the felt underlay and the liner
- C utting the liner, fitting the backwash inlet
nozzle and the skimmer
- Installing pine coping
- The ladders
2a - P osition the horizontal reinforcements level with the upper edge on the exterior of the structure. Make level and screw together from the pool interior, until screw heads
to not protrude.
2b - Pre-drill 3 holes of 6 mm (on the corners).
2c - Widen the holes to a depth of 45 mm using a flat 12 mm drill bit and screw in using three 6x90 screws.
2d - Pre-drill three 6 mm holes and screw into the corners.
2e - Put the brackets in place taking account of the top-bottom direction, mark in their position, drill them and screw them in until the screw heads are fully embedded in the wood.
2f - Screw in the horizontal reinforcement with the consoles.
3a - Screw the mouth of the skimmer into the upper plank using two (2) round-headed screws which you will find in the bag of screws supplied in the skimmer box.
3b - Install the square skimmer outer seal as well as the skimmer body.
3c - Secure the assembly using the eight (8) round-headed screws taken from the packet of screws provided in the skimmer box, tightening efficiently to ensure good leaktightness. (Screw by hand)
3d - Leaktightness seals. Fit a rectangular seal on the skimmer frame, ensuring it is fully bonded. At the backwash inlet, fit the cork seal so that it is in contact with the side panel then
fit one of the two round white seals on top of it, ensuring that they are fully bonded.
3e - Drill the tracks according to the measurements (3 cm from the ends and then approximately every 20 cm).
3f - Screw in the first length of track for the liner using 4x40 stainless steel screws.
3g - At the corners, partially cut a "V" in the track in order to bend the profile. Screw at a distance of 3cm either side of the corner, then screw all of the tracks.
4a - Put the ground protection felt in place.
4b - Cut out the felt underlay using a Stanley knife or a pair of scissors.
4c - Install the liner when the outdoor temperature is between 20°C and 25°C.
4d - Fit the corners of the liner into the corners of the pool.
4e - Hook the liner on to the lip of the track.
4f - Stretch the liner to its full extent.
4g - Fill the pool with water to a depth of 2 cm.
4h - Smooth out the creases and fill with water up to 5cm below the backwash inlet nozzle.
5a - Stop filling with water below the nozzle.
5b - Position the backwash inlet nozzle from inside the pool.
5c - Cut a hole in the liner at the level of the nozzle, leaving approx. 2mm clearance. Put the joint and the delivery nozzle in place.
5d - Tighten the outer nut on the nozzle well enough to ensure it is fully leaktight, following the tip shown in the diagram, if necessary.
5e - Bind the threaded section of the nozzles with Teflon tape in the anti-clockwise direction.
5f - After binding the threaded section with Teflon, screw the threaded shut-off valve into the body of the skimmer.
5g - Install one of the 4-meter pipes and secure using a metal collar, then fill with water up to 5cm below the skimmer.
5h - Fit the seal and the skimmer frame.
5i - Screw the whole skimmer using 18 flat-headed screws from the bag of screws which you will find supplied in the skimmer box.
5j - Cut out the liner on the inside of the skimmer frame.
5k - The water is at the correct level when it is halfway up the skimmer.
The coping is a finishing element, it is strictly forbidden to walk, run or sit on it. The following are not covered by the guarantee:
changes in colour, deformations (splits, cracks knots or splintering) occurring naturally or as a result of poor installation.
6a - Pre-drill the inner coping approximately every 70 cm and screw down. Start no less than 3 cm from the ends.
6b - Pre-drill the outer coping.
6c - Screw down the outer coping.
6d - Position the joining plates at right angles. Pre-drill and screw in using 6 x 30 hinge screws.
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7a - Position the stainless steel ladder away from any brackets, screws...
7b - Mark in with a pencil where the stainless steel ladder tubing will go.
7c - Drill the coping and the support using a 50-diameter hole cutter. Check the positioning of the screws for securing the socket and drill.
7d - Place the ladder socket into the hole and fix in place using two 6x60 hinge screws.
7e - Position the wooden ladder against the horizontal support under the coping.
7f - Mark in the position of the holes and drill.
7g - Mark the location of each bolt on each of the stringers then drill so that the ladder can be fixed in place.
NOTICE 350x505 - H126-2018/1.indd 18
Before you start assembling the pool, check through the list provided on page 5
(warranty) to make quite sure that you have all the necessary parts.
1a - Insert the wooden posts into the metal plinths. There are short (PS1) and longs (PS2) metal plinths, take care to ensure that
they are in the right places!
1b - Ensure the first plank row is level. If the tongues, which correctly align the planks when they are interlocked, are missing or
have minor flaws, this does not in any way affect the mechanical strength of the wood, its durability or the assembling of the pool.
1c - Hold these planks in place using the metal uprights (angle and straight). Secure with bottom Japy bolts 12x160 without
tightening.
1d - Place a provisional normal plank around the top of the circumference of the pool. Secure using the top Japy bolt 12x120.
Tighten the assembly (top and bottom).
1e - It is absolutely essential to check the alignment of the (guiding line) plinth blocks and the diagonals (tape 10m);
A = B.
1f - 1 st case: The perforator is not being hampered by the plinth:
Drill the central hole (diam. 8mm), punch the first anchor bolt and tighten.
1g - Drill all the rest (diam. 20 mm), punch the anchor bolts and tighten. Repeat the operation on each plinth.
1h - 2 nd case: The perforator is being hampered by the plinth:
Mark the position of the holes with paint or a felt pen.
1i - Remove the post and its plinth, drill the holes, reposition, punch the anchor bolts and tighten. Repeat the operation on each
plinth. - Installation of the steel support corner joint - Installation corner joint
1j - Unscrew the upper and lower Japy bolts and let the provisional upper planks descend. Interlock the planks using the sacrifice
piece provided for this purpose.
1k - Put the Japy bolts in place
1l - Position the plank for the backwash inlet on the 7th row opposite the skimmer.
1m - Position the lower then upper plank for the skimmer on the side panel opposite the backwash inlet.
1n - Check the alignment of the lower and upper planks for the skimmer.
1o - Tighten up all the Japy bolts (bolts in bag J for the metal plinths, bolts in bag K for the upper section of the post).
1p - Do the preparation for drilling the upper planks, taking account of the measurements.
1q - Nail the finishing strips to the posts
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11.04.18 10:16
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