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should be the 3/8" diameter OD size to prevent a high pressure drop. Remember, these tanks can weigh up to 30
pounds when full of water; a firm, level area is required.
3.
R.O. Manifold Assembly–The manifold can be installed on either the right or left side of the under–sink area or
a cabinet. The right side is recommended because all the tubing will be to the back of the cabinet and out of the way.
Installation in the basement is also an option, one location is near the laundry/utility sink where cold potable water
and drain access is handy. The mounting location should allow adequate clearance and accessibility for cartridge
changes.
Feed Water Connection–The Feed Water Saddle Valve should be located as close to the manifold assembly
4.
as possible. USE A POTABLE COLD WATER SUPPLY ONLY. Softened water is preferred as it will extend the life of the
R.O. Membrane.
5.
Drain Connection–The waste water must go to drain through an anti–siphon air gap. The air gap is provided
for in the base of the faucet. If discharging into a utility sink or standpipe, an air gap of greater than 1" above the
flood rim must be provided.
Do NOT connect the system drain line to the dishwasher drain or near the garbage disposal. Backpressure from these
units may cause the air gap to overflow.
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All plumbing should be done in accordance with state and local plumbing codes.
NOTE: Some codes may require installation by a licensed plumber; check with the local plumbing authority prior to
installation.
In restricted under–sink areas, it may be easier to install the faucet first. Allow adequate tubing lengths for any final
component position.
A.
Faucet Installation
The faucet contains an anti–siphon air gap. While the system is producing water, the drain water flows from the RO,
through the air gap and then to the household drain. The purpose of the air gap is to prevent water in the drain from
backing up into the RO Drinking Water System.
NOTE: For proper installation the Air Gap Faucet has a critical level line "CL" marked on its body and should be
mounted so that the "CL" line is at least one (1) inch (26mm) above the flood level rim of the sink. The easiest
installation is to use an existing spray attachment hole. If the spray faucet hole is not available, then the sink top must
be drilled. Choose a convenient location as described on page 6.
1.
Mark the location of the center of the faucet base.
2a. Drilling a stainless steel sink:
•
Center punch the hole to provide a starting point for the drill.
•
Start with a smaller drill as a pilot, and then drill a ½" diameter hole to accept the bolt of a 1¼" Greenlee Hole
Punch (1¼" chassis punch).
•
Clean away any chips.
•
Install the punch and tighten the nut to cut the hole.
•
Deburr any sharp edges.
2b. Drilling a porcelain sink:
It is best to use a special 1¼" diameter cutter designed for porcelain. A carbide tipped masonry bit is a second
choice.
•
Place a piece of tape over the area to be drilled to help prevent chip ping.
•
Drill a pilot hole for the porcelain cutter. Use the pilot drill supplied with the kit or a carbide tipped drill.
•
When drilling the 1¼" hole, drill slowly and carefully; the porcelain chips easily.
•
After drilling, clean the area well. Iron filings, if left in place, can cause rust stains.
2c. Drilling a counter top:
NOTE: The counter top must be less than 1¼" thick. Treat ceramic tile as porcelain until the tile is penetrated, then use
the carbide tipped metal cutter.
Formica counter tops may be drilled with a good 1¼" wood bit; drilling a 3/32" pilot hole will help keep the bit
going straight.
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
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