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OPERATION
WARNING:
Do not use large router bits for freehand routing.
Use of large router bits when freehand routing
could cause loss of control or create other
hazardous conditions that could result in personal
injury. If using a router table, large bits should be
used for edging only.

FREEHAND ROUTING

See Figure 12, page 17.
When used freehand, the router becomes a flexible and
versatile tool. This flexibility makes it possible to easily rout
signs, relief sculptures, etc. When freehand routing:
 Draw or layout the pattern on the workpiece.
 Choose the appropriate bit.
NOTE: A core box or V-groove bit is often used for rout-
ing letters and engraving objects. Straight bits and ball
mills are often used to make relief carvings. Veining bits
are used to carve small, intricate details.
 Rout the pattern in two or more passes. Make the first
pass at 25% of the desired depth of cut. This will pro-
vide better control as well as being a guide for the next
pass.
NOTE: Do not rout deeper than 1/8 in. per pass.
EDGING WITH PILOT BIT
See Figure 13, page 17.
The arbor-type bits with pilots are excellent for quick, easy,
edge shaping of any workpiece edge that is either straight
or curved at a curvature as great or greater than the radius
of the bit to be used. The pilot prevents the bit from mak-
ing too deep a cut; and holding the pilot firmly in contact
with the workpiece edge throughout prevents the cut from
becoming too shallow.
Whenever the workpiece thickness together with the desired
depth of cut (as adjusted by router depth setting) are such
that only the top part of the edge is to be shaped (leaving
at least a 1/16 in. thick uncut portion at bottom), the pilot
can ride against the uncut portion, which serves to guide it.
However, if the workpiece is too thin or the bit set too low
so that there will be no uncut edge to ride the pilot against,
an extra board to act as a guide must be placed under the
workpiece. This "guide" board must have exactly the same
contour— straight or curved—as the workpiece edge. If it is
positioned so that its edge is flush with the workpiece edge,
the bit will make a full cut (in as far as the bit radius). On the
other hand, if the guide is positioned as shown in figure 12
(out from the workpiece edge), the bit will make less than
a full cut — which will alter the shape of the finished edge.
NOTE: Any of the piloted bits can be used without a pilot for
edge shaping with guides, as preceding. The size (diameter)
of the pilot that is used determines the maximum cut width
that can be made with the pilot against the workpiece edge
(the small pilot exposes all of the bit; the large one reduces
this amount by 1/16 in.).
DIRECTION OF FEED AND THRUST
See Figures 14 - 15, pages 17 - 18.
The router motor and bit revolve in a clockwise direction. This
gives the tool a slight tendency to twist in a counterclockwise
direction, especially when the motor revs up.
Feed the router into the workpiece from left to right. When
fed from left to right, the rotation of the bit pulls the router
against the workpiece. If fed in the opposite direction, the
rotation of the spinning bit will tend to throw the router away
from the workpiece causing kickback. This could cause you
to lose control of the router.
Because of the high speed of bit rotation during a proper
feeding operation, there is very little kickback under normal
conditions. However, if the bit strikes a knot, hard grain,
or foreign object that affects the normal progress of the
cutting action, there will be a slight kickback. The direction
of kickback is always in the direction opposite bit rotation.
This will affect the trueness of the cut.
To guard against kickback, plan the setup and direction of
feed so that you will always be thrusting the tool in the same
direction that the leading edge of the bit is moving. The thrust
should be in a direction that keeps the sharp edges of the
bit continuously biting straight into new (uncut) wood.
NOTE: For best results, make sure to take enough time to
set up for cutting. While cutting, make sure to use the proper
rate of feed.
PROPER RATE OF FEED
Professional routing depends upon careful setup and proper
rate of feed which is learned through practice and use. The
proper rate of feed is dependent upon:
 hardness and moisture content of the workpiece
 depth of cut
 cutting diameter of the bit
When cutting shallow grooves in soft woods such as pine, a
faster rate of feed can be used. When making cuts in hard-
woods such as oak, a slower rate of feed is required.
Several factors will help you select the proper rate of feed.
 Choose the rate that does not slow down the motor.
 Choose the rate at which the bit advances firmly and
surely to produce a continuous spiral of uniform chips
or a smooth edge.
 Listen to the sound of the motor. A high-pitched sound
means you are feeding too slowly. A strained, lower
pitched sound signals force feeding.
 Check the progress of each cut. Too slow feeding can
cause the router to take off in a wrong direction from the
intended line of cut. Force feeding increases the strain
of holding the tool and results in loss of speed.
11 - English

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