Whirlpool WTW5840BW0 Guide page 13

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN'S USE ONLY
d. Recheck the DC voltages per steps 6 & 7.
 If one or more DC voltages are still missing,
go to step 9.
 If the DC voltages return, check for short
in harness between main control and shifter
assembly. If harness and connections are
good, replace shifter assembly.
9. Check if console UI is affecting the main
control DC supplies.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Remove connector J9 from main control.
c. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
d. Recheck the DC voltages per steps 6 & 7.
Perform voltage checks inside header J9 on the
board – do not short pins together.
 If one or more DC voltages are still missing,
go to step 10.
 If the DC voltages return, check for short
in harness between main control and UI.
If harness and connections are good,
replace console UI.
10. Main Control has malfunctioned.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate
washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.
TEST #2: Valves
This test checks the electrical connections
to the valves, and the valves themselves.
1. Check the relays and electrical connections to
the valves by performing the Cold, Hot, Oxi, and
Fabric Softener Valve tests under Manual Test
Mode on page 9. Each test activates and deactivates
the selected valve. The following steps assume
one (or more) valve(s) did not turn on.
2. For the valve(s) in question check the
individual solenoid valves:
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Remove console to access main control.
c. Remove connector J3 from main control.
Refer to main control diagram on page 12.
d. Check harness connection to solenoid valves.
3. Check resistance of the valve coils across
the following J3 connector pinouts:
V l a e v
H t o a V e v l
o C d l a V e v l
O i x a V e v l
Fabric Softener Valve
Resistance should be 890–1.3k Ω.
 If resistance readings are tens of ohms
outside of range, replace the valve assembly.
 If resistance readings are within range,
replace main control and calibrate washer.
Perform Automatic Test to verify repair.
DO NOT REMOVE OR
i P o n t u
3 J 1 , & 4
3 J 1 , & 5
3 J 1 , & 6
J3, 1 & 7
DESTROY
TEST #3: Drive System
1. Activate Service Diagnostic Test Mode,
retrieve any fault/error codes, and clear them.
If the displayed error codes are F7-E1, F7-E5,
or motor speed codes, there is likely a motor,
capacitor, or shifter related issue.
2. Once the error codes are cleared, enter
Manual Test Mode and run the Heavy
Agitation test; if the motor runs after 15–20
seconds, there is not a problem with the
motor, capacitor, control, or wiring harness
connections (although the black wire from the
shifter to the control should still be checked).
NOTE: The speed wheel in the transmission only
turns during the spin cycle.
3. While in Manual Test Mode, try to get the
washer to spin; if the motor hums briefly and
then shuts down (with the lid lock indicator
blinking), go to Fault Code Display Mode and
look for shifter or basket speed errors, which
verify an issue with the shifter/sensor assembly
(optical sensor is not reading the motor speed).
TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter
This test checks connections, shifter motor,
switch, and optical sensor.
NOTE: Refer to Figure 4, "Shifter Assembly Strip
Circuit" on page 14 for tests and measurements.
IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before
accessing bottom of washer.
Functional Check:
1. Check the shifter and electrical connections
by performing both the Spin AND Agitate test
under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The following
steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
 If basket turns freely, go to step 4.
 If basket does not turn freely, determine what
is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.
4. Remove console to access main control.
5. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connectors
are inserted all the way into the main control.
 If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
 If connectors are not inserted properly,
reconnect J2 and J16 and repeat step 1.
Shifter Motor:
NOTE: Before starting the electrical check,
verify that the cam on the splutch is moving
freely and not binding.
6. Remove connector J16 from main control.
With an ohmmeter, verify resistance of the shifter
motor across the following J16 connector pinouts:
Component
Shifter Motor
Resistance should be 2k to 3.5k Ω.
 If values are correct, reconnect J16 and
proceed to step 7.
J16 Connector Pinout
J16, 1 & 2
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