Making Interior Scroll Cuts; Before Each Use; Choice Of Blade And Speed - Makita SJ401 Manuel D'instruction

MAKING INTERIOR SCROLL CUTS

1/4" Hold in Workpiece
Centered Over Hole in Table
1. One of the features of this saw is that it can be used to make
scroll cuts on the interior of a board without breaking or cutting
into the outline or perimeter of the board.
WARNING:
To avoid injury from accidental starting, always push
control knob "OFF" and remove plug from power
source outlet before removing or replacing the blade.
2. To make interior cuts in a board, remove the scroll saw blade
as explain in the Assembly Section.
3. Drill a 1/4" hole in the board you will use to make interior cuts.
4. Place the board on the saw blade with the hole in the board
over the access hole in the table.
5. Install blade through hole in board and adjust blade tension.
6. When finished making the interior scroll cuts, simply remove
the blade from the blade holders, as described in the Assembly
Section, and remove the board from the table.

BEFORE EACH USE:

Inspect your saw
DISCONNECT THE SAW. To avoid injury from accidental starting,
unplug the saw, push the switch "OFF" and lock the switch before
changing the setup or removing covers, guards, or blade.
lnspect your workpiece
Make sure there are no nails or foreign objects in the part of the
workpiece to be cut.
Use extra caution with large, very small or awkward
workpieces:
• Never use this tool to cut pieces too small to hold by hand.
Teeth/Inch Width
10 .110"
15 .110"
18 .095"
As a general rule, always select the narrowest blades
recommended for intricate curve cutting and widest blades for
straight and large curve cutting operation.
Thickness Speed (Strokes/Min.)
.020" C (1200 - 1600)
.020" B (600 - 1200)
.010" A (400 - 600)
• Use extra supports (tables, saw horses, blocks, etc.) for any
workpieces large enough to tip when not held down to the table
top.
• NEVER use another person as a substitute for a table extension,
or as additional support for a workpiece or to help feed, support
or pull the workpiece.
• When cutting irregularly shaped workpieces, plan your work so it
will not pinch the blade. A piece of molding, for example, must lay
flat or be held by a fixture or jig that will not let it twist, rock or slip
while being cut.
• Properly support round material such as dowel rods, or tubing.
They have a tendency to roll during a cut, causing the blade to
"bite". To avoid this, always use a "V" block.
• Cut only one workpiece at a time.
• Clear everything except the workpiece and related support
devices off the table before turning the saw on.
Plan the way you will hold the workpiece from start to finish
Do not hand hold pieces so small that your fingers will go under the
work hold-down. Use jigs or fixtures to hold the work and keep your
hands away from the blade.
Before freeing any jammed material:
• Push switch "OFF".
• Lock the switch.
• Unplug the saw.
• Wait for all moving parts to stop.
When backing out the workpiece, the blade may bind in the
kerf (cut). This is usually caused by sawdust clogging up the
kerf. If this happens:
• Push switch "OFF".
• Lock the switch.
• Unplug the saw.
• Wait for all moving parts to stop.
• Remove the blade from the blade holders.
• Remove workpiece with blade from the table. Remove blade
from workpiece.
Push switch "OFF".
Before removing loose pieces from the table, turn saw off and
wait for all moving parts to stop.

CHOICE OF BLADE AND SPEED

The scroll saw accepts a wide variety of blade widths and
thicknesses. The blade width and thickness and the number of
teeth per inch are determined by the type of material and the size of
the radius being cut. See the following chart.
Popular size for cutting hard and soft woods 3/16" up to 2".
Also plastics, paper, felt, bone, etc.
Wood, plastic, extremely thin cuts on materials 3/32" to 1/2"
thick.
For tight radius work in thin materials 3/32" to 1/8" wood veneer,
wood, bone, fiber, ivory, plastic, etc.
Material Cut
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