Maktec MT191 Manuel D'instructions page 7

plate is flush with the back side of the gauge base.
Check this alignment carefully to ensure uniform
cutting.
5. Slip the heel of the adjusting plate into the groove of
the drum. (Fig. 9)
6. Set the drum cover over the adjusting plate/set plate
and screw in the three bolts so that a gap exists
between the drum and the set plate to slide the mini
planer blade into position. The blade will be positioned
by the planer blade locating lugs on the set plate.
7. The blade's lengthwise adjustment will need to be
manually positioned so that the blade ends are clear
and equidistant from the housing on one side and the
metal bracket on the other.
(A) Front base (Movable shoe)
(B) Rear base (Stationary shoe)
Correct setting
Nicks in surface
Gouging at start
Gouging at end
Connecting a vacuum cleaner (for
European countries only) (Fig. 10)
When you wish to perform clean planing operation,
connect a Makita vacuum cleaner to your tool. Then
connect a hose of the vacuum cleaner to the nozzle as
shown in the figures.
OPERATION
Hold the tool firmly with one hand on the knob and the
other hand on the switch handle when performing the tool.
Planing operation (Fig. 11)
First, rest the tool front base flat upon the workpiece
surface without the blades making any contact. Switch on
and wait until the blades attain full speed. Then move the
tool gently forward. Apply pressure on the front of tool at
the start of planing, and at the back at the end of planing.
Planing will be easier if you incline the workpiece in
stationary fashion, so that you can plane somewhat
downhill.
The speed and depth of cut determine the kind of finish.
The power planer keeps cutting at a speed that will not
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8. Tighten the three bolts (with the socket wrench
9. Check the three bolts for final tightness.
10. Repeat procedures 1 - 9 for the other blade.
For the correct planer blade setting
Your planing surface will end up rough and uneven,
unless the blade is set properly and securely. The blade
must be mounted so that the cutting edge is absolutely
level, that is, parallel to the surface of the rear base.
Refer to some examples below for proper and improper
settings.
(A)
(A)
(A)
result in jamming by chips. For rough cutting, the depth of
cut can be increased, while for a good finish you should
reduce the depth of cut and advance the tool more slowly.
Shiplapping (Rabbeting) (Fig. 12)
To make a stepped cut as shown in the figure, use the
edge fence (guide rule). (Fig. 13)
Draw a cutting line on the workpiece. Insert the edge
fence into the hole in the front of the tool. Align the blade
edge with the cutting line. (Fig. 14)
Adjust the edge fence until it comes in contact with the
side of the workpiece, then secure it by tightening the
screw. (Fig. 15)
When planing, move the tool with the edge fence flush
with the side of the workpiece. Otherwise uneven planing
may result.
Maximum shiplapping (rabbeting) depth is 9 mm.
(Fig. 16)
You may wish to add to the length of the fence by
attaching an extra piece of wood. Convenient holes are
provided in the fence for this purpose, and also for
attaching an extension guide (optional accessory).
provided) and rotate the drum to check clearances
between the blade ends and the tool body.
Although this side view cannot show
it, the edges of the blades run
(B)
perfectly parallel to the rear base
surface.
Cause: One or both blades fails to
have edge parallel to rear
base line.
Cause: One or both blade edges
(B) fails to protrude enough in
relation to rear base line.
Cause: One or both blade edges
(B) protrudes too far in relation
to rear base line.
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