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1.1)
Heat exchanger:
The entire heat exchanger should be inspected annually for soot
accumulation. If the burner is operating normally there should very
little soot accumulation. If the heat exchanger requires scale removal,
use a wire brush first to loosen the scale and then vacuum the soot
and scale that has fallen into the secondary heat exchanger (radiator)
section. You will find that a 36" long flexible hose attachment will be
helpful to reach into the back of the radiator; a piece of 1/2" flexible
gas connector, or a piece of 1/2" liquid-tight vinyl jacket metallic
electrical conduit works well as a makeshift device.
Cleaning the heat exchanger:
Remove the 4-bolt flange from the front of the furnace to reveal the
clean-out port and check for soot deposits. If there is very little soot in
the radiator section visible from the clean-out port, you will not need to
clean it. However, if you notice scaling in the radiator, you should
remove the scale.
The wrap-around radiator can now be cleaned entirely from the front
inspection port. Also the new furnace has external clean-out ports so
the soot does not fall into the fan compartment during the cleaning
operation.
IMPORTANT
Do not vacuum the ceramic chambers—they are easily
damaged.
Soot will have collected in the first sections of the heat exchangers
only if the burner was started after the combustion chamber was
flooded with fuel oil, or if the burner has been operating in a severely
fouled condition.
1.2)
Refractory fire pot:
Remove the burner and check the fire pot.
IMPORTANT
Use extreme care if cleaning of the pot is required. After
firing, the pot becomes very fragile. Do not use any
commercially available soot remover. This furnace has
a fiber type refractory combustion chamber. Normal
servicing of this unit does not require cleaning of the
combustion chamber.
If the pot is damaged, it must be replaced. A damaged pot could lead
to premature heat exchanger failure. Cracking of the fire pot is normal,
however, replace the pot if the cracks have propagated more than 2/3
the way through the wall thickness. The average wall thickness of the
firepot is 3/4".
Flooding of the fire pot:
Flooding can occur when the oil primary control has been reset a
number of times in a no-heat situation. Each time oil is fired into the
pot and does not ignite, it is absorbed in the pot. Even if the burner is
removed and the pot is felt for wetness, it is difficult to assess the
degree of oil absorption by the pot.
There is only one way to properly service a flooded fire pot, and that is
to change it.
CAUTION
If you observe the red warning light on the burner, push
once ONLY to try and restart. If the burner will not start,
phone your authorised service agent. Do not press the
button again.
Self-aligning firepot:
The appliance primary heat exchanger is comprised of an upper and
lower half. The lower half is essentially a "can" that houses a self-
aligning firepot. the firepot will fit into the bottom half in one orientation
only.
Removing the firepot:
The firepot is seldom replaced, but when it must be replaced one must
simply :
1.
Remove the burner.
2.
Remove the burner limit control.
3.
Remove the breech plate.
4.
Remove the front panel.
5.
Remove the brass nuts on the stainless steel heat exchanger
studs.
6.
Pry the bottom heat exchanger halves apart using the designated
prying tabs.
7.
Remove the bottom heat exchanger half from the furnace cavity
through the front of the furnace.
8.
Pull the firepot up and out of the bottom heat exchanger half.
9.
Pull the old sealing gasket down off the flange of the upper heat
exchanger half.
10. Scrape off any residual gasket material off the heat exchanger
mating flanges.
Replacing the firepot:
1.
Align the slot in the front face of the firepot with the burner tube
sleeve and gently lower the firepot into the bottom heat
exchanger half.
2.
Holding the firepot near the perimeter, gently push the firepot all
the way into the bottom heat exchanger half until it seats.
3.
Completely wet the gasket with water using a spray pump bottle,
position the tabs over the studs, and push the gasket upward
against the sealing flange of the upper heat exchanger half.
4.
Install the brass nuts on the studs by engaging only 2 or 3
threads.
5.
Position the bottom heat exchanger half underneath the upper
heat exchanger half and rotate the bottom half so that the slots in
the bolting tabs engage the stainless steel studs. There is no
further need to hold onto the bottom half as it will now be
suspended on the stud nuts.
6.
Push upward on the can and thread the nuts finger-tight as far as
possible.
7.
Intermittently tighten the stud nuts with a wrench in a sequence
that will pull the heat exchanger halves together evenly. Tighten
all nuts to 90 inch-lbs Torque once and then alternately re -tighten
all nuts again to 100 inch-lbs THE RE-TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO ENSURE A
TIGHT JOINT.
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