Possible cause 3: Insufficient flow.
If using a cartridge filter: Confirm this by running the system with the
cartridge removed from your pump and filter unit, this will supply the
heater with the maximum flow rate your unit is capable of. If the heater
then switches 'On' (ie: red light 'On') a blocked cartridge can be confirmed
to be the cause. The cartridge should be cleaned or replaced.
If using a sand filter: Check the pressure indicator on your sand filter and
back wash if necessary.
Note: In some cases the 'Thermal safety cut-out' tripping and a low
flow rate can be linked ie: when a filter becomes choked air can be
drawn into the filtration system and become trapped inside the
heater, so causing the thermal cut-out to trip.
General Trouble Shooting
THE FLOW TUBE DOES NOT FEEL WARM
Due to the high efficiency of your electric heater no warmth should be
detectable from the flow tube of the heater.
The most likely causes of the flow tube feeling warm are:-
Possible cause 1: The heater has been positioned in direct sunlight.
Possible cause 2: An air pocket is trapped inside the heater particularly if the
flow tube feels warmer at the highest point (as air rises).
THE WATER ENTERING MY POND DOES NOT FEEL MUCH WARMER
The temperature gain of the water after it has passed through the heater
will be directly proportional to the volume of water being pumped in
relationship to the power output of the heater.
For example: A 6-kW heater, when connected to a 4,000 litre / hour
(4m3/h) pump, will produce a lift in temperature of approximately 1.2°C
(almost undetectable to the human hand) however, as the water being
heated is re-circulated from a single body of water, the time required to
heat it remains unaffected by the volume of flow. A popular misconception
is that slowing down the flow rate will speed up the heating process.
7
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