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Moulding Natural Timbers - (Fig. 10a)
When edge moulding natural timbers, always mould the
end grain first, followed by the long grain. This ensures
that if there is 'breakout', this will be removed when the
long grain is routed.
Side-Fence Routing
The side-fence is used to guide the router when
moulding, edge profiling or rebating the edge of the
workpiece or when routing grooves and slots in the
centre of the workpiece, parallel to the edge. The edge
of the workpiece must be straight and true. The cheeks
are adjustable and should be set ideally with a 3-4mm
gap each side of the cutter.
Fitting and Using the Side-Fence -
(Fig. 11 - 11a)
• Make sure the thumb knobs (3) are fully released. Slide
the guide rods (1) into the router base (2) and tighten
the thumb knobs (3).
• Adjust the side-fence (4) to the required distance and
clamp in place with the thumb knobs (3).
• Lower the cutter height until the cutter is just above the
workpiece.
• Lower the cutter onto the workpiece and set the
cutter height by raising the depth stop (5) the required
distance.
• Switch on the router and when the cutter reaches full
speed, gently lower the cutter into the workpiece and
lock the plunge, with the plunge locking lever (6).
• Feed along the timber, keeping sideways pressure (A)
to ensure the side-fence does not wander away from
the workpiece edge and downward pressure on the
inside hand (B) to prevent the router from tipping.
• When finished, raise the cutter, secure with the plunge
locking lever and switch off.
CAUTION:
Ensure working position is comfortable and at a
suitable working height.
When starting the cut, keep the pressure on the front
cheek (C) until the back cheek contacts the workpiece
edge.
At the end of the cut, keep pressure on the back cheek
(D) until the cut is finished. This will prevent the router
cutter swinging in at the end of the workpiece and
'nipping' the corner.
Using the Guide Bush - (Fig. 12 - 12c)
The 16mm guide bush (1) is fastened to the router's base
from beneath using the two M5 countersunk machine
screws (2) supplied.
EN - T4
Routing with a Template
The guide bush is used in conjunction with a template
when the routing operation is repetitive or the workpiece
is complex in shape. The template is fixed to the upper
surface of the workpiece. A cutter is chosen with a
diameter which will pass through the centre of the bush
leaving enough clearance. The cutter can be straight
or shaped. The router can then be guided around
the template so that the shape of the template will be
replicated.
Making the Template
The template is cut from 6mm or 1/4" MDF, plywood
or plastic to the shape required. The guide bush offset
needs to be allowed for when calculating the shape
of the template. The template must be smaller by an
amount equal to the difference between the 'outer edge
of the guide ring' and the 'outer edge of the cutter'. See
below for the offset calculation. The edge of the template
must be free of imperfections as these will be replicated
in the final workpiece.Calculations for template
offset - (Fig.12a - 12b)
Using a template to rout an edge straight - (Fig. 12c)
Alternatively it can be used for cutting shapes or making
panelling grooves.
NOTICE:
When using a T4 with a Hinge Jig a universal
sub-base Ref. UNIBASE is recommended.
CAUTION:
In some instances the cutter may project below the
guide bush, so ensure a router stand block is used.
Making a Router Stand Block - (Fig. 13)
When using a guide bush a useful aid is a router stand
block. This is simply a piece of scrap timber with a
hole large enough to take the protruding guide bush
and cutter. This will allow the router to stand up safely
between operations.
Carving and Grinding - (Fig. 14)
Carving and grinding applications can be carried out with
the router removed from its plunge base. When using the
router in this way, only use multi flute carving, engraving,
or de-burring rasps and burrs.
Never use high speed router
cutters for carving operations.
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WARNING:
Always unplug the machine from the power supply
before separating the router from its plunge base.
Removing the Router from the Plunge
Base - (Fig. 15)
• Never separate the router from the base while a cutter
is fitted in the collet. Always disconnect the router from
the power supply before separating the router from the
base.
• Remove collet nut, collet and spring.
• Use the 14mm open ended spanner (1) to release the
clamping nut (2) on the base. Slacken the nut off until
the motor unit slides out of the base (3).
• Refit spring, collet and collet nut.
• To change cutters the 14mm A/F spanner and 17mm
A/F spanner are used because the spindle lock will be
disengaged.
• When re-fitting the motor unit, ensure that the switch
is facing the front of the router so that it is accessible
when plunge routing.
• Ensure that the clamping nut is re-tightened before
using the router for normal plunge cutting operations.
Bearing Guided Cutters - (Fig. 16)
Edge profiling and shaping cutters are available with a
bearing fitted to the end. This enables shaped or straight
workpieces to be routed without the need for a guiding
device such as a side-fence or batten.
The edge must be free from imperfections as these will
be reflected in the finish of the mould. Often alternative
diameters of bearings are offered which will change the
shape of the resulting mould.
With certain shapes such as the chamfer cutter below,
increasing the depth of cut will produce a larger
chamfered edge.
• Fit the bearing guided cutter into the router collet.
• Place router onto the workpiece.
• Set height of cutter using the depth stop (1).
• Switch on the machine.
• After releasing the plunge locking lever (2), lower the
machine slowly as far as the depth stop.
• With bearing of cutter running along board edge,
mould the edge of the workpiece by moving the router
in the direction shown.
• A continuous motion should be used to prevent
burning of the workpiece. When possible, take a
number of passes at increased cutter depths. A light
final pass will produce a good finish.
• When complete, retract the carriage by releasing the
locking grip knob.
EN - T4
• Switch off the router.
• The guide bearing ensures the cutter follows the
workpiece.
• Where the material thickness leaves insufficient room
for the bearing to make contact, a second piece of
material can be temporarily fixed beneath it for the ball
bearing to follow.
CAUTION:
Keep downward pressure with the inside hand to
prevent the router from tipping.
Freehand Routing with the
Router - (Fig. 17)
The T4 can also be used for signwriting or creative
freehand work without any form of guide. With practice,
numbers or name plate designs can be routed freehand.
Draw the design or motif on the workpiece and then rout
the design, taking shallow passes.
• A V groove cutter is ideal for engraving designs at
shallow depths.
Batten Routing - (Fig. 18)
Where a side-fence cannot be used, it is also possible
to guide the router along a batten clamped across the
workpiece (with an overhang at both ends).
Guidance from a batten is similar to that obtained from a
side-fence. This method is appropriate if the edge of the
workpiece is not straight or is not very smooth or simply
the guide rods of the side-fence are too short for the job.
Use the straight edges of the router base and calculate
the distance required from the edge of the batten to
the cut required. Always check that the clamps do not
obstruct the path of the router before starting the cut.
The Trend clamp guides have integral clamping
mechanism for quick & accurate guiding of the router.
Standard technique is used, and side pressure applied to
ensure the router does not wander from the batten.
After use, remove all accessories, and return tool to its
storage case. Please use only Trend original accessories.
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning
• Keep the machine clean at all times. Some
maintenance products and solvents may damage
the plastic parts, these include products containing
Benzene, Trichloroacetyl Chloride and Ammonia.
• Never use any caustic agents to clean the plastic parts.
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