Maytag MHW9000YW0 Mode D'emploi page 17

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN'S USE ONLY
and 3. If the drum LED driver is working
properly, you should measure 150–370 mA.
 If the current is present, replace
the drum LED.
 If the current is not present, replace the UI.
10. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
11. Reassemble all parts and panels.
Water Level Controls
3 Water Inlet Valves – Test #6
3 Pressure Sensor – Test #7
3 Drain Pump – Test #8
3 Flow Meter – Test #9
TEST #6: Water Inlet Valves
This test checks the electrical connections
to the valves and the valves themselves.
1. Check the relays and electrical
connections to the valves by performing
the "Quick Diagnostic Test" on page 6. The
following steps assume one or more of the
valves did not turn on.
2. For the valve(s) in question, check the
individual solenoid coils:
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Remove top panel to access machine
electronics.
c. Remove connectors VCH7 and VSF2 from
the CCU. Refer to CCU diagram on page 13.
d. Check harness connections to the
solenoid valves. Verify continuity in harness
between CCU and solenoid valves.
3. Check valve coil resistance at the valves,
or across the following VCH7 and VSF2
connector pinouts:
Valve Assembly
Cold Fill Valve
Hot Fill Valve
Steam Valve
Resistance should be 890–1.1k Ω.
 If resistance readings are outside the range
or open, replace the valve assembly.
 If resistance readings are within range,
reconnect VCH7 and, if applicable, VSF2
to CCU. Go to step 4.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
DO NOT REMOVE OR
Pinouts
VCH7, pins 1 & 3
VCH7, pins 5 & 7
VSF2, pins 1 & 3
DESTROY
5. With a voltmeter set to AC, attach the
leads across the pins of the suspect valve
(see chart in step 3). Run the "Quick
Diagnostic Test" and check for line voltage
across the pins of the valve. NOTE: Refer
to the "Quick Diagnostic Test" on page 6
to determine when the cold, hot, and steam
valves are actuated. (Example: Cold valve is
actuated during test phase C02.)
 If line voltage is present and valve still does
not activate, replace valve assembly.
 If line voltage is not present, replace the CCU.
6. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
7. Reassemble all parts and panels.
8. Perform the "Quick Diagnostic Test"
to verify repairs.
TEST #7: Pressure Sensor
This test checks the pressure sensor, CCU,
and wiring. NOTE: Usually, if the pressure
sensor malfunctions, the washer will generate
a long fill or long drain error.
1. Check the functionality of the pressure
sensor by performing a Quick Diagnostic Test
on page 6. If a problem is detected during
the test, a pressure sensor error (F6E1) will
be triggered. The following steps assume
the sensor failed.
2. Run a DRAIN & SPIN cycle to remove all
water from the tub.
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
4. Remove top and rear panels to access tub,
air trap, and pressure hose connections. Pressure
sensor is located at top right rear of cabinet.
5. Check connections from tub to air trap,
air trap to pressure hose, and pressure hose
to pressure sensor.
6. Check to ensure hose is routed correctly in
the lower cabinet and not pinched or crimped.
7. Verify there is no water, suds, or debris
in the hose or air trap. Disconnect hose from
pressure sensor and blow into hose to clear
water, suds, or debris.
8. Check hose for leaks. Replace if needed.
9. Visually check that connector PS8 is
inserted all the way into the CCU (refer to
CCU diagram on page 13). Also check that
the pressure sensor harness is securely
connected to the sensor.
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